Return to Japan......seems like I was never away!14 years, almost to the day, had passed since I left Narita to return home having lived in Tokyo for almost 3 years. I recall at the time being a little bit home sick, a feeling that lasted almost to the baggage reclaim at Heathrow, when I remembered that I would have to once again get used to lack of service, manners and the idea that getting something done was only a possibility and not something that a paying customer had the right to expect.
The years have passed, children have come, career has changed and the memory of happy, although at times frustrating experiences in Japan became more and more distant.
A pleasant flight courtesy of Virgin Upper class and a smooth transfer to the Hotel Okura in a typically spotless black Nissan President complete with pure cotton lace seat covers and a uniformed and gloved driver, was a wonderful beginning to my adventure.
The landscape and skyline were very familiar, additions being several rather large ferris wheels on the way to the city. The familiar view of Tokyo Disneyland......it's Cinderella castle came into view on the left and I knew that we were approaching the edge of this great city. There are many more tall buildings on the skyline since my time here and there are some very impressive structures to view. The orange and white structure of the Tokyo tower suddenly appeared and this seemed to have as big an impression as from memory. I believe that the additional skyscrapers give this impression but once darkness falls and the Tower is illuminated its former glory is restored.
previously I had only been to the Hotel Okura for and formal Japanese meal and once for a traditional tea ceremony. From the exterior the building looks very ordinary but it has an elegance that only the Japanese can carry off. Service doesn'tt just come with a smile but with reverence and respect that having not been used to for so many years I found embarrassing. Located opposite the American Embassy I'm sure you can imagine the security. Anyone who has been to Japan will recall the abundance of what can be described as Red Light sabres ...... I describe this way as this is exactly what they look like and are carried by traffic police to guide you along the way, workmen to guide you around roadworks, for a small hole being dug in the road there would be maybe 3 men digging, three tidying and three with light sabres directing people/traffic. Well around the American Embassy there are many guards with Star Wars swords!...plus amoured vehicles, fenced off sidewalks, armed guards and barbed wire. 100 metres down the road the Wooden clad facia of the Swedish embassy has the gate and door open and an invitation to come in and see their 'Sweden today' exhibition.
The Hotel was very apologetic as their very famous and very expensive Sushi restaurant was closed fro refurbishment. When asked when it would be re opening I was again told in a very apologetic manner that they were very sorry but as the room was being completely redecorated and extended that it wouldn't be open till Friday..... well this was Tuesday......errm do you mean this Friday I asked?...Yes sir we are very sorry. So who reckons a major hotel in the UK or the US for that matter would be able to close down a fairly large room, redecorate extend and have it back up in pristine and believe me it is absolutely spot on, top notch, first class the cows b**l*cks, in two days. As I said earlier I forgot that things happen here.....and that's in the Hotel Okura
or Macdonalds.
Having had a bit of time away from work this week due to the Golden week holidays I've been exploring much on foot. I was amazed to find my old apartment where I first lived still there and the district much unchanged. This apartment was a very nice Western style 2 bedroom 2 bathroom in an block of 12 flats in a mostly Japanese area. The building was owned by a family who had the building constructed in the late 80s like many did at the time when property was booming and many had inherited land from their families. On the ground floor they ran a Sushi restaurant that had a very good reputation and appeared in guide books. We were treated very well as one of their only 'gaijin' customers and as locals and regulars were given the nicest cuts of tuna etc that was reserved for such people. We were even bought a present when we left. Well the restaurant is still here too and so I thought Id venture in there for nostalgia sake. Yes the same family run it and after some unsure glances from them I said 'Chinone-san'
for Mr Chinone to ask 'Keith san'
a very touching moment and his wife and son were duly called down and we exchanged stories of the last 14 years!
The skyline has changed somewhat with some very impressive structures around, two of note are the Mori tower in Roppongi Hills. This is a vast development on the site of what was the Wave building a well known record store during my previous life in Japan. There are now several buildings plus floors of shops and restaurants all very impressive. The Mori tower itself has an observation gallery on the 52nd floor giving an incredible 360 degree view of the city and beyond, Mount Fuji included. The sunset was something else and as the city lit up it was one a moment of a similar experience several years ago at the top of the twin towers in New York. This of course brought back sad memories of friends no longer around. The other building that took my eye was not as high but none the less equally impressive. Standing only 8 stories high the all glass Prada building in Aoyoma is something else.
I had forgotten the true meaning of this place being 24 hours. My Friday night began with drinks in a Sports bar before moving on to a Japanese fusion restaurant which served what was one of the best meals I have ever had. Another bar afterwards with a Brazilian theme, before going to a club at 1 am. Time flies when you are enjoying yourself and when seeing the time was almost 6 am I was somewhat surprised, more the fact that I was still awake. The evening was by no means over as we then headed to one of many recovery parties that kick off at 5 am and go through till 12 midday. We left at 10:30 am and went for a brunch at a place I frequented many years ago, Spiral Hall, returning to my hotel at 12:30 pm .......it was 17½ hours since I left. Now that was some night!
A memory from before was Sundays in Harajuku where the musical youth of Tokyo gather to put on the most incredible sound and visual performance seen anywhere. From cute girl band, to rap artists, to Heavy Rock, Jazz, Rock and Roll and anything else you can think of is seen here. The now world famous Harajuku girls gather adjacent to the station at the bottom of Yoyogi park and are all keen to be photographed. Their eye for detail and originality is impressive.

Harajuku girls Back to work Monday and this seems more like working as I remembered as all the Japanese are back from the Golden Week holidays. One has to remember that Yes means No, Maybe means No and it's a result if you ever get to being told No! ......You have then arrived.
An interesting day speaking to our various customers, who are used to speaking to a Japanese American. My different approach is welcomed by some and frowned upon by others. One has to tread carefully in such cases.
On returning to my hotel I found a little present (some cakes in a pretty box) from the Hotel thanking me for staying with them for the past week and hoping that everything was OK and that I enjoyed the rest of my stay. These kind of things are nice.
Wander round the basement of any of the supermarkets and you will find their food halls. These are something else with all manners of food stuffs in various states of ripeness, some dead some still alive but all presented in the same way..Impeccably. Go into a bakers for bread, the first problem is choosing from probably 15 different loaves, a similar amount of rolls, various pies and countless pastries. Once chosen your goods are placed in a bag which is then sealed, then wrapped then put into a carrier bag into which is also placed another plastic bag for the purpose of keeping your bread fresh when you open it at home. Just like Sainsburys eh!?
I spent a quiet evening eating alone in a brassiere that served wonderful food, was frequented by quaint young Japanese, the ambiance only disturbed by a Canadian and two Australian women who obviously lived here courtesy of a successful man and proceeded to try and out do each other by boasting of their exploits each of which was quantified by the cost. My experience is that people who boast about wealth tend not to actually have that much. A wonderful meal spent people watching and I was able to look upon the other western clientele with a firm tongue in my cheek!
Tuesday tonight and three more days to go. I'm meeting with a group of guys who I've worked with at various times through my career and they are all now working here in Tokyo. It's going to be strange to be in their company after a long time, a situation I never envisaged being in. Some of these guys I remember starting as trainees and now they are established in their careers, wow that was me a few years back and I looked at people my age and thought Ill never get that old!
A long night of conversation and reminiscing of times and people past and present. One of the guys in particular I'd only seen once in about 12 years but when together its like we were never apart. A good guy who is very similar to me in mannerisms and moods......we had a blast. As I sat in the taxi returning to the hotel I pondered what might have been had I stayed in Tokyo, would I have stayed for 10 years or more like these guys? Who knows! However I concluded that one cannot change the past and my family at home are my life now and I am really missing them to bits. It will be good to see them again in 3 days time.
Work was slow today probably coupled with the fact that I had a headache but I had to be looking my best as I have to visit a customer then go out for a formal dinner with them. A bit of a dodgy stomach coupled with the headache hasn't done much for my appetite for what will be a Japanese meal of some 10 courses. I hope I make it!
It didn’t go too badly.......nothing too heavy and everything was dead! Lots of polite discussion and not too late. A pleasant walk through the Tokyo night was nice to take in as I passed some landmarks for what may be the last time on this visit.
Thursday and my last day in the office. Was busy first thing due to some issues relating to New York…all now sorted and will spend today seeing everyone around the office for the last time and make sure Im taking back their issues and concerns to London. Will meet up with some friends tonight for some goodbyes, should be fun.
It's been great to be back here after so long, much has changed cosmetically but the same culture that I remembered from before is alive and well. The fact that I knew I was only here for 2 weeks made me have maybe a different attitude to how Ive lived as to when I came here knowing that this was to be my home for at least two years. I hope to return again much sooner than before, that possibility has been made probable by this trip.
Any one out there who gets the chance.......come and experience Japan, its something you will never forget.
Sayonara Tokyo, domo arigato gozai masu !